WIPOD – Design Talks: Transcript of Episode 5

Crafting Success and Empowering Women

Sarah Lucek: Welcome, everyone, to another episode of Design Talks, your gateway to the captivating world of design.

I'm Sarah, your host.

And today, I am honored to welcome our amazing guest: Mrs. Sladjana Milojevic, the founder of Nonna Handmade, a family-owned fashion enterprise specializing in hand-made weaving and embroidery.

Nonna Handmade works with communities of women artisans from Western Serbia, offering them not only a source of income but also the pride of reviving an ancient craft and preserving the intangible cultural heritage of the country through a collection of garments and accessories.

How inspiring! I am excited!

It is worth mentioning that Sladjana participated in the WIPO training, mentoring and matchmaking program on intellectual property for women entrepreneurs from indigenous peoples and local communities.

Sladjana, who is also the Director of Fashion Cluster Serbia, a non-profit organization aiming to support and promote the fashion industry in the country, is now a specialist in the groundbreaking possibilities of safeguarding global design innovation!

Get ready and fasten your seatbelt for a captivating story of women's empowerment through design!

Sladjana, thank you for being with us today!

Sladjana Milojevic: Thank you so much. I'm really honored as well and I'm really happy to be with you again. We have just finished our program about traditional knowledge in Geneva so I'm really excited with this interview.

Sarah Lucek: Thank you again. So, can you tell us the story behind the creation of Nonna Handmade and how did it all begin?

Sladjana Milojevic: Yes, of course, in our beautiful ambience of our family house surrounded by the hills and in the untouched nature of the western part of Serbia, my sister and I decided to put preserved weaving needles, tailoring rulers, books, and sewing machines with pound ground in our house, which belonged to our grandmother and grandfather, and to put back into the operation before 7 years now.

In memory of the hard-working hands of our Nonna, we call her Nana, and our grandpa, we innovated a collection of Nonna handmade. And we created through the combination of the traditional but as well contemporary ideas and productions processes. Within a handed craft techniques such as, as you mentioned, embroidery, crochet, weaving, our family story of creative creation of Nonna Handmade may continue to our third generation but hope so forward as well through my daughter.

Our vision of Nonna Handmade is to preserve a part of a cultural heritage through the combination of traditional and contemporary, in ideas and productions process to make our Nonna products desirable and available to everyone who wants to own unique products inspired by tradition.

As I mentioned, Nonna Handmade is our family business, family women entrepreneur company, that in addition to the family consists of the team of experts as well. The team’s experts, I’m meaning designers, professors, constructors, modeling, academic painters as well, and of course masters of old crafts such as embroidery. In the beginning we are very famous about it.

And all of them are working, gathering together around our Nonna in two studios, one is in the west part of Serbia, where is our family house, and another one is here in Belgrade, where I am sitting and I'm working in that studio. Another one studio is covered by my own sister.

Together, we create Nonna products with that artistic style, together with a touch of that traditional and very, very Serbian heritage culture. So, Nonna products are not only beautiful, they are also exclusive in some way. And at this moment, we really can say that we are the only one in Serbia doing a collection in this way.

Sarah Lucek: That's fantastic. Could you maybe give us example of accessories or garments produced by Nonna Handmade?

Sladjana Milojevic Yes, of course, with the unique combination of modern tradition, we apply, as I told, a lot of craft shifts through our manual modeling and tailoring. And of course, we are really taking care about such kind of materials, what we are looking, and we are putting in our collections.

So, the main activity, what I can say and what we recognize comes from embroidery. Embroidery techniques, we applied in total four techniques plus the techniques of the golden embroidery, which is also very demanding embroidery beside others, but also it is the most beautiful one. It is called the golden embroidery because that becomes in the medieval Serbia.

We also use the material that is created in Serbia, and it is called Serbian Folk Canvas, is really made from 100% cotton and of course linen, this really very healthy, it is natural and for us it is much more important to be natural and to be in the touch of the history but to be also completed with contemporary fashion and clothes.

And the colors that we are also representing in our collections for Nonna are the colors of Serbian traditional culture and flag. And these are white, black and red. So, we stick to these colors throughout the collection with the, of course always is obligatory beige natural color, which reflects natural and circular representation of the natural in the native form.

So, our exclusive collection of Nonna Handmade are really much more focused on that small collection but elegant and perhaps out of the context of the ultimate trends.

Sarah Lucek: It’s really interesting and really inspiring actually. And how do you balance preserving the traditional aspects of your products while also meeting the demands of modern consumers who are always seeking new trends?

Sladjana Milojevic: Yes, I have just explained maybe a little, but our exclusive collection of Nonna Handmade are created in that coordination between two studios, one which is located as I told, in the western part of Serbia, and in that studio are mainly craftsmen working and these ladies from the rural part of Serbia.

Their way of doing Nonna collection is really unique and they are really the masters of their works. So, they can make, for me, in my opinion, haute couture collection as well and collection for luxe brands. But in conjunction with the manual embroidery and other techniques, we really got the Nonna luxe products.

But on another hand, in our studio in Belgrade, when we have very very good tailoring men, we are doing custom-made production. And each piece of Nonna collection is really unique because we are doing it only for you, for one customer of us.

Sarah Lucek: Thank you for these clarifications and details. So, let's go to my next question, which is: as a woman entrepreneur in the design industry, what challenges have you faced and what advice would you give to aspiring women entrepreneurs?

Sladjana Milojevic: Yeah, it's a nice question. The biggest challenge was to start again and put again all that stuff with my sister and I used to grow up with.

So, another challenge for us was how to combine the work of academic artists and engineer with the women who live and work in the countryside, in our small village in the west part of Serbia.

But also, the important question was whether someone would wear it and who would be our buyer. And it was really a big issue for me and my sister. But when there is a desire, there is a will and there is a strength.

And I think so this is especially true for women, perhaps more to women who have fought for themselves all their life and are taught that only work and lifelong learning are the way to success.

I'm an example of that because when I was about 50, I started a business with Nonna and some of my friends and people around, think it is a time to retire, to go walk by the lake and enjoying spa, not to start a business, but I inspire now even young women to move, not just women my age, and it is important to believe in yourself because others will trust you in that case.

You know during my career of more than 25 years. I realized dreams of other people, I was working for and for their brands. So that's why for me the beginning of 50 is my dream come true. So that is my message to women all over that if you desire you will well.

Sarah Lucek: This is a beautiful message, and your story really is inspiring. Can you share some stories or examples highlighting how Nonna Handmade has empowered women both economically and personally? I heard a story about employing women in rural areas, so could you please share some stories? This will be really interesting.

Sladjana Milojevic:  Yes, of course. We really have a lot of them, to be honest. But most importantly is we have improved the lives of women who live in the countryside and work for Nonna. For me, that is most important.

They have now turned their hobby into a business and the products that they do now, not Nonna products, but their own, they sell at local fairs, as well for the people living in the local community, for weddings, and for another ceremony in the country sides and the village where they are living.

Also, they are working with the folk dancing groups in that village, and we are really very honored that we helped them. They no longer depend on their husbands and their salaries.

Now they can earn their own money, but not only through agriculture like before. They also have their own money from their work, from their skillful hands. And that's really beautiful thing that we encourage them to start to produce their own products as well, not only working for Nonna.

Sarah Lucek: It's truly motivational. Where do you sell Nonna-Handmade products and what strategies have you used to expand your market beyond your local area?

Sladjana Milojevic: Mostly sales are based in Serbia through our showroom, located in the city center of Belgrade. It is a Belgrade design district, and we have a nice showroom, Nonna Handmade.

Also, sales of Nonna products are available through digital channels, our website Nonnahandmade.com, and Instagram profile: @nonnaethno.

For now, our customers are mostly our people who live and work in Serbia, but also who live and work abroad, as we call them diaspora. The largest community of Serbs lives in Chicago, in USA, and then in Germany, and also, in other European countries.

Those people who live outside of their homeland actually wants to get in touch with her the most. They have this nostalgia, that it is reflected in memories, moments and clothes of things they had in their houses before they moved out for the search for a better life outside of Serbia.

Our customers really want to wear a part of their tradition but therefore they understand and recognize Nonna Handmade Collection in the right way. Because when you are wearing Nonna, you know you are wearing a part of history as well on yourself. So that's our customer.

Sarah Lucek: If my sources of information are correct, Nonna Handmade is a registered trademark within the intellectual property office of the Republic of Serbia. Could you please elaborate on the benefits of protecting one's creations in the fashion industry?

Sladjana Milojevic: Yes, we know that the sign representing a fashion brand is what customers recognize a certain quality and reputation.

As the building of a fashion brand and its reputation requires investments from the organization of production, creative work, in the recognition of your products, marketing and the expansion of the network of customers, I realized that it is necessary to protect my brand - Nonna, by which customers recognize it. And considering that these are hand embroidered products, they make sure that our sign is also visible on our products as well, regardless of whether it is a label or clothing items, but also on handmade products we are producing for a home, it is a runner and all other stuff.

So, given that our production is relatively limited, and with the number of women we have now, and on a handmade in all, but we really expect it to be much significant export outside business, so we will plan also, and we will think certainly about trademark protection outside the Republic of Serbia.

Sarah Lucek: And talking about protection, do you know the Hague System? And if yes, have you considered the Hague System in your strategies?

Sladjana Milojevic: Yes, I heard first time about it during my WIPO program.

I really think that design protection is important for the fashion industry, although it is not used to a significant extent by manufacturing of fashion products, at least not in the Republic of Serbia.

And I mean this primarily because of the dynamic of seasonal collection that lasts one, at most two seasons. So, it is considered that maybe investing in design protection is not that relevant.

But until now, I have no doubt that about the design protection, it is really necessary to do as well. Because the Nonna Handmade production really comes from the history from history, traditional motifs as well, but we modified it, we reworked on that on the modern and unique way.

So, I will do it certainly in the near future from the new collection for Nonna Handmade, and I really will put all my efforts on what I have about the fashion apparel industry in Serbia, about the classroom, taking care to promote importance of this Hague System as well.

Sarah Lucek: And how do you think embracing the Hague System could benefit not only your work but also the work of other women designers in Serbia and beyond?

Sladjana Milojevic: Yes, certainly design protection started at the national level and at the international level through the Hague System is also important for the fashion industry, especially for those who create slightly different models from those that can be seen on the market in the commercial way.

And also, for one who wants to build their fashion style, it is necessary, especially for companies that are expanding their business abroad to export or moving production. As it's a message to both competitors and consumers that you are someone who takes care about your creation. I think so, it's really very important.

And I will do as much as I can on my part and in cooperation with our Serbian Intellectual Property Office in Belgrade to spread knowledge about the importance of IP protection and especially about design protection among producers in the fashion industry in Serbia.

Sarah Lucek: Recognizing the importance of design protection in emerging economies, like Serbia but also in developing countries, I truly value your perspective Sladjana. On a different note, I am interested to hear if you have any advice for women entrepreneurs venturing into the fashion industry?

Sladjana Milojevic: Go ahead, leave your own dreams, not work from others to complete their dreams. Leave your own dreams, it is no matter how old are you. It is important that you believe in your product, in yourself and then your confidence, everybody else will believe you.

Sarah Lucek: Thank you so much, Sladjana, for gracing us with your presence today and sharing the remarkable story of Nonna Handmade, but also for sharing your story as a woman entrepreneur.

In the words of Coco Chanel, "Fashion fades, only style remains the same.", your commitment to preserving cultural heritage through fashion is a testament to the enduring power of timeless style.

A big thank you to our listeners for joining us on this enlightening episode of Design Talks, proudly presented by the Hague Registry at WIPO, the World Intellectual Property Organization, with support from the Funds in Trust Japan Industrial Property Global.

Stay tuned for our upcoming episodes, and in the meantime, catch up on all our podcast episodes on our website or on popular platforms like Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and Google Podcasts. 

Until next time, let's keep inspiring and innovating!